Tuesday, September 29, 2009
The Fishbowl
Of course we live in a fishbowl. We are always on display. Three foreign girls parading around in saris on our way to school are always a sight but, never more so it seems, than during this last festival; Navatry. Meg, Lyndi and I had so much fun dancing the night away with the garba circle in town. Each night we donned a different outfit; saris one night from our own collection, a borrowed one the next, traditional chanya chowdri after that - always decked out in our finest as the festival required. We always elicit looks, I mean, we do stand out but the looks turned into odd comments this week. "Why don't you have more ornaments on?" "Why doesn't your blouse match perfectly to your sari?" "Why are you garba steps so wide?" Most of the questions we have taken in stride. Gujarati's tend to be very forthcoming in their comments; to say the least. Honesty becomes brutal at times and they think nothing of it. But, this was a fun festival that everyone had been working up so much to us and we had really looked forward to participating in it. It's never easy to be the different one is a society of people that all dress identically aside from the difference in colors. It's not like a teacher will come in to school wearing the mandated sari and have it folded toga style. So, for us to throw our own spin on clothes, or to not have our hair done properly, or to simply opt for western dress to avoid comment - illicited many comments. By the end of the festival, we were all feeling our differences and really having a hard time handling the comments. It's hard to continue to embrace the culture when the culture is making it hard to do so by being critical of the steps you are taking.
While this was a frustrating aspect of the festival, there were more to make it extremely memorable. I loved the nights when Lyndi and I were able to go to Madhi and play garba with our students. Since we don't live in the village that we work, these times are really special to me, and to the kids as well. That first night especially, I can't remember how many houses we were invited into of students who's families I had yet to meet who put more food into our hands that I could handle to eat in one night's time. It was overwhelming to me at times, how happy and welcoming the parents were when we came into their homes and their children introduced us as their teacher; whom I'm sure they have heard plenty about over the last few months. In one home, Shrey's mother was sewing his outfit for the next night when he would be competing in a garba competition. She was hard at work gluing on more sequins than I would think possible, making the outfit colorful and shiny. I got to see him wearing this outfit the next night (and you can too - here is Shrey and I) along with his friends Dhuval and Ashok, who are all in my Spoken English class.
Navatry quickly has become my favorite festival we've been here to participate in and it shows in how exhausted I am from it! Nine nights of dancing till 1am, while still teaching, can really tire a girl out. So, I'm off to catch up on sleep. Hope you enjoy the pictures!
Monday, September 28, 2009
No English, No Progress
I find it a privilege to come here to India with an invitation. Someone finds my skills so useful to fly me around the world and provide me with food and shelter for my services. This is a honor for me to share my skills with fabulous, hard-working students. This opportunity was given to me mostly because of my ability to speak my first language.
It was stated at the English Language Teacher’s Association Conference, “No English, No Progress.” This statement hit me and the intern Milli right in the face. There was something shocking about all these presenters from all over the world using my mother tongue with such ease and skill. There were representatives from Sri Lanka, Lybia, Syria and all were in agreement that the importance of teaching English was so important, it should not be taught as a foreign language, but as a second language.
The disconcerting part of this is that people in the United States hardly know about these countries, but yet so many are striving to speak their mother tongue. Language teaching is not of great importance in the United States because it is felt that we can get far enough using our own language. We can get very far using English, but at the same time being multilingual certainly has its advantages. It also helps people to see the importance of building relationships with people all over the world, which is of great importance in our global economy.
It is certainly convenient to speak the leading international language, yet I don’t feel like I should necessarily be entitled to this without any additional work. Throughout the conference my “white guilt” was being felt strongly. Here I am in another country with miniscule knowledge of their language and I am blessed to be able to have the expectation, or hope that others will understand me despite the fact that I am speaking a foreign language.
I guess all that I can say is I have the utmost respect for my students. They are asked to be comfortable and fluent in three languages. Some students have a knowledge of five languages: Hindi, Gujarati, English, Sanskrit, and the Muslim students also know Urdu. I understand the obstacles of mastering so many languages from my failed attempts to become fluent in another language.
I want to teach my students the important place English has in this world and show them the necessity of learning it, but also understand the struggles they are having as a result of being asked to learn so many language. I want them to know that they are fortunate to be able to know more languages than most educated people in the United States.
Simple pleasures...
This week I wanted to give them an opportunity to see something they haven’t seen before so I looked through our small collection of children’s story books and picked out some I thought they would enjoy. The English was simple enough for them to follow, but what really impressed them were the illustrations. At every turn of the page there was an audible gasp from every student. Their eyes opened wide to take in the vividly colored pictures and they stretched out their arms to touch the pages. After reading each page I would walk through the room to give each student a chance to see the pictures close up. At some points their enthusiasm for the books was too great and my co-teacher had to reprimand them in Gujarati to get them to sit patiently for their turn to look at the book. When the class bell rang the students sighed in disappointment because we had not finished the story.
It was so refreshing to see their enthusiasm and interest in the books. As I write this blog there are 350 books on their way to our school from the US and I can’t wait to get these books into the library so they can circulate through the students’ hands and minds. The simple joy of reading them a book made my day and I can’t wait to see what books I can share with them in the future.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
life in the public eye
Is this what television stars feel like, the day after a picture of them, drunk or fighting with a partner, appears on Page Six or OK Weekly? I'm starting to sympathize.
Today as Kathryn and I sat outside the auditorium, the middle school principal drove by on his motorcycle. "Today is a special program," he said. "You should come and be the judge."
Unfortunately- or fortunately- we both had class, so we could not be the judges of the competition. However, we promised to come at some point and watch.
I arrived late, two hours into the program. Entering the auditorium I saw a mass of students, separated by gender, sitting on the floor. I looked around for a chair in the back, noticing the teachers and parents sitting there. Then I raised my eyes. Sitting on stage, next to the principal, past the mass of students, past the parents in chairs, standing out like a soar thumb, was Kathryn.
She looked amused. We made eye contact and she grinned. I tried to sneak into the corner and sit but the principal saw me and beckoned me to the stage. I waded through the sea of students and climbed the stairs to the stage, taking a seat besides Kathryn.
"Welcome," she said dryly. This was my view from the stage:
What commenced, or continued, can only be called a Program of Cuteness. The program was a costume and singing competition. Each kid was dressed in some beautiful or silly or cute outfit, and came up on stage to sing a very short song. One kid was a strawberry, one a cow, and one was dressed like Gandhi, with a shaved head, glasses, and dhoti!
Here is an excerpt from the program. Many students forgot their lines, and had to look to teachers for encouragement!
The program ended and I sighed. My duty of sitting on a stage being watched by 500 people was over! People began talking excitedly and all the kids got on stage. Next to me, someone unwrapped a packet of pencils and put it on a chair. I stared at the pencils, thinking, "I'm going to have to hand out these pencils to the winner, aren't I."
Sure enough, the principal turned to me. "Now hand out a pencil to each child."
One by one, the students approached me, and touched my feet (!). I handed them a pencil and smiled. If they didn't touch my feet, a nearby menacing teacher would yell at them them in Gujarati.
When the program let out, I went back to my house, relishing being alone. I grabbed my purse and went into town to buy some chocolate. Ten minutes later, standing in front of a drug store counter, the friendly clerk eyed me and said, in Hindi, "I hear you were at the program!"
So much for anonymity.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
"Teacher, teacher!!"
I am daily harassed by my students with questions and descriptions of their days. Though it can be annoying to hear "TEACHER, TEACHER! HOW ARE YOU?!" all the time, it is also great to hear such enthusiasm from my students who are often too shy to speak in front of their peers in the classroom. Walking by students homes often results in short conversations with family members, or even invitations to dinner. Once, while walking to a friend's house, Claire and I were ambushed by several 7th standard students and ushered into a house. I was delighted to see one of my quietest boys in 7B inside the house next to his Ganesh statue, eager to show and explain (as best he could) the importance of this small statue.
Friday, September 11, 2009
The Story of Ganesha and Ganesha Festival
Ganesh festival is a celebration for a Hindu God called Ganesha, who is also known in the west as the Elephant-Headed God. Ganesha is the son of one of the three main Hindu Gods called Shiv. Before I talk about the festival, I would like to introduce Ganesha and his importance in the Hindu world. There are many religious stories on how Ganesha received his elephant head; I will share the one I grew up with. Shiv, Ganesha’s father use to travel a lot to the mountains when Ganesha was growing up so Ganesha was very attached to his mother. One day Parvati, Ganesha’s mother went to take a bath. She told Ganesha to guard the door from outside and not let anyone in. Shiv came there and asked Ganesha to let him in. Ganesha refused. Shiv is known as the God of destruction. He is known for his anger. Shiv didn’t take no for an answer and he cut Ganesha’s head. Parvati came out and found her son dead. She told Shiv to bring her son back to life unless she will use her special powers to destroy everything. Shiv couldn’t replace Ganesha’s head and bring him back to life with the same head, so they decided to wait for the first thing that passes in certain direction to cut its head. An elephant passed and so Shiv cut that elephant’s head and performed the rituals to replace Ganesha’s head. Parvati was very concerned about her son’s future with the elephant head. She took a promise from shiv that in the mortal world, Ganesha should be prayed first on any occasion, and Ganesha should come before any God. Even today, Ganesha is prayed to before any other major Hindu Gods or Goddesses. Ganesha resides on a mouse, he has a big belly and he loves ladoos (an Indian sweet made of wheat flour, sugar, cinnamon, almonds etc…)
In Bajipura, it was really good to see the whole community come together every night. Each booth had something special going on. Some prayed with classical music in the background, some did Garba (Gujarati folk dance) and some had feasts. My Hindu students enjoyed this festival a lot. Every day in class my students would invite me to go see their Ganesha after school. “Teacher, please come to our Ganesha we will play carrom.”Carrom is an Indian board game which my students enjoyed playing during this festival. After going to various different Ganesha booths every night, I realized that it wasn’t just a festival for children; it was rather a learning experience. Parents allowed children to be out till late because they wanted their children to see how everything is arranged so that in future they can carry this tradition forward. It wasn’t just time to play and chill; it was a lot more than that. Along with my students, this festival was a very unique learning experience for me too. I can’t wait to come back to India in future to celebrate this festival again.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Happy Anniversary!
In my three months I have developed relationships not only with my students, but also the Gujarati teachers and one teacher in particular comes to mind. Upon meeting this teacher for the first time I was unsure how to feel about him. He introduced himself as the PE teacher, but he didn’t have to tell me that for me to know. I could tell by the shirt tucked into his sweat pants, the athletic shoes on his feet and the whistle around his neck. He also walked around with such an overbearing air; he was loud, his eyes could stare any student into submission and his whistle blows were sharp and piercing. It was funny to me that such a stereotype could cross cultures. Truth be told, I was a little scared of him at first.
Needless to say, I was more than a little surprised when I found the PE teacher in the back of my first Spoken English class. “I want to learn from you,” he explained when he could see my eyes questioning his presence. His English was broken and we communicated with holes of confusion. He made notes on paper from my writing on the board and I could tell he was making a concerted effort to improve his English. When my section of boys got too loud one day he was quick to reprimand them and I decided that this arrangement would work quite nicely; I could teach him English and he could help with classroom management.
Our conversations became more frequent and we talked about many different things. I learned things about his family and told him things about mine. We talked about the different sports the students enjoy and how to play them (although I still have no idea how to play Kho-Kho). When I needed rides to and from the English Medium school he was quick to volunteer, his reply to my "thanks" always being “No mention.” One day another American teacher was introduced to him and she told him that his English was very good. He laughed, and pointing to me said “She is a good teacher.”
Another teacher that I have grown very fond of is a primary teacher that I work with. Together we teach 6th and 7th standard, two of my favorite classes. Our working relationship in the classroom is seamless. After class on Thursdays we sit together in the primary staff room drinking tea and talking. She said she would help to arrange my marriage, and I half agreed. Her love for her students is obvious and I am so happy that we can teach together.
Someone else that I have enjoyed spending time with is a trustee on the school board. Within the first two weeks of arrival in India we had an invitation to his house down the street for a Mexican dinner. His family worked hard to make us feel at home and that night I had the best ice cream I’ve ever eaten. Tonight I called him to ask if he knew a place to get faluda, our new favorite Indian dessert. He said he didn’t know of a place but that he would call back in five minutes. When my cell rang he said he was waiting outside our house. We jumped in his car and he took us to his house where his wife made us delicious faluda and we feasted on custard apples while sitting on his porch swing. It was a very nice night.
I am always so surprised at the level of kindness and hospitality shown to us. I love getting to talk candidly with people here and the new ideas that form in my head as a result of those talks. I am enjoying the relationships that I am developing and I look forward learning more from them.
Monday, September 7, 2009
Teacher Appreciation Day
**This is my final post to the NEF blog, as my internship is now finished and I am back in DC for another school year. The following is an entry that I wrote several weeks ago while I was visiting Bombay before returning to the United States. Thank you for reading, and I hope you will continue to follow the exciting stories that the Nanubhai fellows post throughout the year!
Dear Reader,
Because all the girls were wearing such beautiful clothes to school during Aluna (see my previous posts for details), I was feeling slightly underdressed in my simple salwar kameez. So on Teacher Appreciation Day, I decided to “up” it a little and wear a sari to school for the first time!
Wearing a sari is quite an ordeal for the inexperienced foreigner. It was only after some practicing and weekend coaching/tough love from my friend Dimpal that I was able to pull together something that looked even remotely like how a sari should be on a person. So to prepare for the worst, I woke up an hour earlier than usual to wear a sari to school for Teacher Appreciation Day. After some miraculous maneuvering (and, I admit, a little help from Jhaya-ben, our cook and Dimpal’s mother), I was ready to go to school!
I was astounded by the difference wearing a sari made. Despite my constant fear of tripping or my sari unraveling, I was surprised by the students’ lovely comments of “Teacher, you are looking very fine today!” The amount of respect I got from the usually very rowdy 12th standard boys was incredible. Hina-ben, the secondary school Gujarati teacher, said to me, “Now you are looking like a real teacher!” It made me contemplate wearing a sari every day to school.
As I was sitting, these thoughts running through my head, students began to trickle into the staff room. Little did I know that Teacher Appreciation Day also meant Students-Mob-the-Staff-Room-Day; within minutes, every R.V. Patel school student, from Junior KG to 12th standard, was rushing to the staff room, pushing to get inside until a teacher ordered that there be a line winding through the staff room and trailing outside the door. So in a single file line, the students went around to each teacher and honored them by touching their feet. In turn, the teachers touched each student’s head, giving them their blessing. In India, teachers are highly respected—they are gurus, and the source of knowledge.
I felt like I did not deserve to be treated with so much respect from the students; should they have to touch the feet of a lowly college intern who, for some, is not much older than them (although I tried to hide my age for as long as I could)? But the other teachers kindly assured me, “No Milly, you are a teacher, you are one of us!” How could I reject the smiling faces of the students as they bent down to touch my feet and secretly gave me flowers and candy? I am here to share my knowledge of the English language with them, and that is the least I can hope they get out of me being there. So why not? I wholeheartedly accepted all the students, giving them all the blessings that my inexperienced years had the capacity to give.
Namaste and thank you for reading,
Milly
Fashion and Frivolity
America’s Next Top Model, step back.
Our fashion-forward friends in Surat can give you a run for your money!
The festival of Ganapati (described by other teachers below), which figures twin statues of the god Ganesha being tossed into bodies of water across the country, is precluded by ten evenings of events and excitement. Along with daily offerings of puja to the beneficent elephants, residential communities come together each night to host fun activities where neighbors compete against each other to show off their talents and win prizes.
Though there were no Ganesha statues in our own residential complex (too expensive, not enough residents, etc.) we were invited to the final event being hosted in one of our fellow teacher’s neighborhoods, a twenty-minute rickshaw ride away. Reema Ma’am is not only a great companion at school, she is also a fantastic hostess, and had volunteered to put together the fashion show competition at her residence.
We arrived at 9:00 while everyone slowly and leisurely gathered together, having snacks and drinks and adding final touches to their outfits. Upon our arrival, Pamela and I were surprised to discover that Reema Ma’am had appointed us as the judges for the competition. At 10:30, when the event finally commenced, we were escorted to sit down… directly on the edge of the Ganapati shrine. Feeling underdressed against our backdrop of sparkles, we took our seats awkwardly, smiling at the audience that faced us (two foreigners in front of two brilliantly pink Ganeshas).
With a total of four different age groups competing, the participants numbered near about thirty. Many seemed to have selected their own musical track which blared out of giant speakers, turned on by a radio DJ sitting right up against the statues, and each was to take a total of two turns around an open floor downstairs, moving first toward the judges (us) and then back around to the audience. We gave scores across three categories: Walk (including confidence and pacing), Dress, and Style (different from dress because it includes embellishments such as turns and creative poses).
From the 5 year old beauties tottering along with their mothers, to the strutting gray-haired grandmother hamming it up for the crowd, we kept breaking our serious judges faces with laughter for the entire competition. Some of the more ambitious participants would fix me with a steely, confident look as they pranced my way only to stop at an abrupt angle and look at me from under dark lashes, red lips pursed, and blow a kiss our direction. A few had stunning charisma (Pamela and I both singled out a blooming Miss India) and great energy. A couple ringed solid 10s from both of us, and one brightly-dressed young girl carried a bouquet with her and, upon reaching the “judges stand,” extravagantly extracted a flower each for me and Pamela before twirling away across the stage. She may have only scored a 9 for her walk but she broke the record with an 11 from me for style.
By this point, we’ve been called on to help judge a number of competitions at Khatiwala, but this fashion show broke my expectations—it was incredibly fun. I’ve always felt that India is the best-dressed country I’ve so far encountered, and so much of everyone’s income seems to be invested in the pursuit of gold, jewels, and beauty… and let me tell you, the fashion show didn’t disappoint. These people are gorgeous and they know it.
Namaste,
Dalena
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Ganapati in Kadod
After 10 days of evening offerings to Lord Ganesh, all of the villages around Kadod brought their beautiful statues through the town to throw in the river. This culminated in a big procession full of music, dancing, and gulal (pink powder). Here are some photos from the 5 hour long parade.
Some girls put on protective face masks before dancing in the parade. This kept them from inhaling too much of the powder and car exhaust in the long procession of trucks and tractors.
Many of my students stopped dancing briefly to pose for a picture (and throw pink powder their teacher).
Needless to say, I was fully pink by the end of the day. My students were particularly excited to cover their American teacher in gulal. All in all, it was a really fun day. Festivals like this one have been a great way to feel a part of the Kadod community and get to know a few more people in this lovely village.